I thought I would put something together about the assembly of the Tricopter 3.3 base frame:
1. The parts that were cut are 3 Landing Gear legs (upper left), 3 Motor mounts (middle left), flight controller protector plate (lower left), battery camera tray (bottom middle), lower tricopter plate ( upper right), and lower tricopter plate (middle right).
The lower tricopter plate has larger openings to run your power cables through and 4 holes for the screws for the battery tray. The upper tricopter plate has a hole for individuals running the KK 2.0 flight controller to run the battery voltage meter from the bottom of the board.
2. Take six 1 1/4 inch # 6 machine screws and place them in the 4 lower holes and the middle inside holes on the top tricopter plate.
3. Take two 12 inch 5/8th wooden boom and drill a hole in the middle about .25 inches from the end of the boom. Then place the booms onto the screws. Do not insert the rear boom yet.
4. Loosely add the #6 nuts to the six machine screws.
5. The rear boom consist of a .25 inch aluminum rod that is inserted through a 2 inch long half inch piece of wood that also has a .25 inch hole drilled into it.
The aluminum rod has a flat drilled into to attach a piece of aluminum welding wire that is twisted with a washer to keep it from catching.
The exposed aluminum is inserted into the 10 inch rear boom that has a .25 inch hole drilled into it. To secure this I recommend using some hot glue on the shaft and pressing it into the rear boom hole. This is how I have my tricopter secured and have had no issues even after numerous crashes.
6. This takes a bit of force, but now you will take the rear boom and force fit it into the four rear mounting screws. This is where having the screws loose really helps, since you are able to wiggle the boom back and forth to get the boom in. Line up the end of the boom with the top screws.
7. I found this outdoor tape at my local wal-mart while in search for something I could buy locally that would dampen the motor vibrations better than foam tape. This cost about 5 dollars and two layers on the motor really minimize the motor vibrations. I tested this with my Multiwii Flight Controller board while looking at the sensor data.
Take two pieces of this tape and place on the bottom of the motor mounts covering the screws after the motors are installed.
8. On the front arms motor mounts run the zip-ties through them and snug them up enough, but still allow room to slide them over the booms comfortably. Once seated comfortably tighten the zip-ties to secure the motors to the boom.
9. Run the zip-ties from the bottom of the motor mount yaw block, through the motor mount, and back through the yaw block. Once seated comfortably tighten the zip-ties to secure the motors to the boom.
10. Take the landing gears and secure them to the booms, the landing gears have a 5/8th top section to help with the alignment to the boom. The rear boom placement will need to be closer to the main body due to having to mount the servo on the rear boom.
10. All finished with the frame assembly. The frame weighs in at about 9 ounces or 250 grams with out the battery tray or flight controller protector.
The weight difference between the 5/8th booms and the 1/2 inch boom is about 15 grams per boom for a total of a 45 gram difference. This would bring the weight down to 210 grams if you were to elect to use 1/2 booms over 5/8 ths.
I personally use the 5/8th arms because I am still learning to fly and they seem to hold up quite a bit better than the 1/2 inch arms. The model is also designed for 5/8th boom, but I may add 1/2 inch holes in the rear to accommodate both types of arms but spacing might be tight due to their being only an 1/8 inch difference or 1/16th that the holes would need to be moved inwards.
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